Day 10 was always going to be a moving day. Anya one of my German friends had very recently lost one of her closest friends and yesterday was the day of her funeral in England.
I was very honoured when Anya invited me to join her and Karin on a trip to the village of Tavari and to help her do a small ritual for her friend on what had been one of her favourite beaches.
We met in the village square at 9.45 and after a drive over some hair raising mountain roads we arrived at Poderas beach.
Poderas was a beautiful, unspoilt beach with crystal clear water and the volcanic sand typical of this area of Lesvos.
Anya crafted a lovely wooden plaque adorned with fresh flowers for her friend Thelma, and together we set up a small altar by the water's edge. I brought Persephone along to ensure a seamless transition between realms for a woman whom I have not met but feel connected to through the heartfelt words Anya uses to describe her friend.
We conducted a small ritual calling the Elements and the Goddess to honour Thelmas life and bless her passage to the other realms. It was simple and beautiful and after this Anya set off on her body board far out to sea to release the plaque to the waves.
It was beautiful and meaningful but the day was not a totally sad one. We spent a lovely day chilling on the beach, laughing hysterically about not having sex and had a nice mezze lunch in a taverna in Tavari. I am aware that sometiimes we give German people the reputation of being somewhat cold and humourless. Whoever came up with that theory clearly never met these ladies who have brought so much laughter and warmth to my trip.
On our way to lunch we came across a tiny Greek chapel and went in to have a look and light a candle for Thelma and I lit some for my Son Benjamin, my Uncle Reg and my dear friend Pete.
When we reached Tavari I was mortified to realise I had inadvertantly stolen the lighter from the church. It was still in my hand!
Anya looked at me deadpan and said "you have stolen the light of God" on the way back to Eressos when her car kept breaking down we concluded it was our punishment for such a grave sin.
The stolen light of God.
In the evening I was booked on a botanical walk with the amazing Dimitra followed by a meal of food that would have been eaten in Ancient Greece.
I was really looking forward to this evening and it did not dissapoint. Dimitra led us on a walk around Scala explaining the historical and spiritual significance of many local plants and spoke to us about the sorts of plants that Sappho would have grown in her garden.
There were some plants that are used in our craft in the UK such as pine, rosemary and bay and some that were new to me. It was fascinating.
This is the Tamarisk tree, sacred to Aphrodite it is a natural distillery that takes salt out of the water giving its leaves a distinctive salty taste.
We learnt many interesting facts about the plants and their corrosponding tales in Greek Mythology. Also lots of wonderful stories of life for the ancient Greeks especially here in Lesvos. Dimitra is an award winning archeologist who specialised in nautical archeology. What a wonderful way of bringing the past to life she has.
After the walk we headed to Sapphos Palace for a meal prepared by Dimitras partner Maria and business partner Jodi, using ingredients and techniques that would have been used in Ancient Greece.
En route I heard someone mention Artemis and of course my ears pricked up at the mention of one of my home girls. This resulted in having a great conversation with Jane an Irish girl living in Plymouth who had recently visited the temple of Artemis in Ephesus and is studying Hermetics. We had a good craic during the dinner and she has reccomended some very interesting reading material to me.
The first thing we tried was sweet wine with a variety of herbs and Greek Cheese in it.
It was disgusting I knocked mine back like a Jaeger bomb and I'll definately be keeping my cheese and wine separate in the future, I can't see this making a comeback any day soon.
We then tried a variety of dishes prepared in traditional ways . Some were delicious particularly tzadziki prepared in the ancient way. Some were not so tasty but it was an interesting way to taste food from 1000s of years ago.
Before the meal Dimitra made a blessing in the form of an ancient Greek song and I wasn't the only woman there to have an emotional response. It was like being connected to the souls of those who walked here so very long ago.
So the sun set on another beautiful day and I headed home early to spend some time with the moon.
Thanks as always to everyone sharing my journey.
Bright Blessings and much love Bex xx